Al Manzifah, Sharqiyah, Oman
By Hasan Kamoonpuri
Huge buildings are reminders of ingenuity in the past. Some of the houses are four-storied, enough to accommodate a 100 people
IBRA, about 147 km from Muscat, is the gateway to Sharqiyah region. Al Manzifah, in the lower part of Ibra (Sufalat) is worth visiting for the remains of grand fortified houses and forts that are a living testimony to the ingenuity and architectural skills of the people who lived here more than 350 years ago. You will be enchanted by the elaborate structures, strikingly designer doors, and windows and a round tower with square rooms inside. Al Manzifah represents a vital link with Oman's cultural past. Much of the charm and character of this old mercantile village has not washed away but it seems to be crumbling fast and newly built modern houses are coming up in its vicinity.
A stroll down its alleys by the Observer team with the local shaikhs revealed interesting aspects of this bygone trading centre with ancient homes of some grand old merchant families. Although most of the buildings are crumbling, it is clear that Al Manzifah was an impressive town. There are four storied houses with elaborately designed crenellations. The arches and plasterwork display fine craftsmanship. The wooden doors, a reminder of strong trade links with India and Zanzibar, are substantial with handmade bolts and nails complementing the intricate carvings.
Al Manzifah is a must-see for those with a passion for history and Arabian architecture. Some of the houses are so big that they accommodated a 100 people, who used to live together in complete harmony and peace of mind. Each house has one or two wells, indicating that there was plenty of water in those days. The schools, mosques and hospital — all made up of mud and stones — speak volumes about the ingenuity and rich past of Oman. The people of this region pride themselves on their hospitality. Whether you stay in a camp, or hotel, the famous warm welcome will soon have you feeling at home. Salim bin Rashid al Ma'amary, born in one of those old houses, led the Observer to the historic sites and said "this place is unique because it offers you an insight into the people and their culture". Muhammad bin Salim al Aisry, another resident of Al Manzifah, said "these spectacular ruins are some of the oldest houses in the country".
From the ruins you can make out easily that the houses were built imaginatively with all the necessary amenities such as well decorated and large living rooms, dining halls, spacious bedrooms and kitchens with storerooms. Each and every part of the building tells you about the ingenuity and broad outlook of the people who lived here. The designs are excellent, the walls are strong with two metres thickness and the staircases are both comfortable and good-looking. And all this was done when there were no engineers or modern machinery. No visitor can fail to be amazed and entertained here.
According to Al Aisry Oman had close trade links with Zanzibar and India and therefore the wood for the doors of these houses used to be sourced from those two places. Given the historical importance and the scenic splendour of Al Manzifah, it can very well be converted into attractive tourist spot. Authorities from the Ministry of Heritage and Culture have made several visits to the place and local residents hope something is under way, that would renovate the historic site.
Shaikh Ahmed bin Rashid al Ma'amary, Wali of Ibra, said the 1,800 square kilometre Wilayat of Ibra is a known commercial centre with 75 scenic villages. Besides, there are 11 schools, 15 forts, nine castles and 75 towers and scores of government departments. Ibra's 62 falajs and water springs are among the other attractions of the area. Several important projects are currently under way that will further raise the profile of Ibra and its potential for tourism. The Ibra Hospital, estimated to cost RO 15 million, is in its advanced stages of completion. Plans for an elaborate sewage system are getting their finishing touches. If it is a good old-fashioned natural charm, relaxation and homeliness that you are seeking, Al Manzifah knocks spots off most of its rivals.
Oman Observer 29th December 2003
