Camel-racing in Oman, Al Mudhaibi, 2002
By Conrad Prabhu
The dusty, windswept landscape of Al Mudhaibi, in the Interior region of Oman, is an unlikely setting for the Sultanate's most famous camel-racing event. Dotted by craggy hills and desert shrubs, this bleak terrain is far removed from the opulence and glamour associated with race courses elsewhere in the Gulf, and indeed in the Western world.
Yet, the Al Talaqui Camel-Racing Festival held recently in this remote part of the Sultanate was by far the biggest and the richest in terms of prize money. It drew an incredible 1,300-plus thoroughbreds from various wilayats of the Sultanate, as well as from UAE, Saudi Arabia, Qatar, Kuwait and Bahrain.
Up for grabs in this high-stakes event were 45 high-value cars, nearly half of them contributed by camel racing aficionados of the UAE, as well as a bonanza in gold bullion, silver khanjars, and traditional swords and guns, of a total value of RO170,000.
Tourists converge on Al Mudhaibi to watch a major camel-racing event
These prizes are just icing on the cake for the owners of the winning thoroughbreds, which are snapped up by wealthy Gulf shaikhs as quickly as they surge past the finish line. Despite the fabulous price tags, rising as high as RO250,000, these prized dromedaries are more coveted than the Lambhorginis, Bentleys and other present-day classics of luxury motoring.
In fact, over a dozen lucrative deals are known to have been closed within days of the conclusion of the festival, generating windfall amounts for the lucky camel owners. The benefit of these deals will be derived not only by the owner concerned, but by an entire industry encompassing camel breeding, training and racing activities.
Omani camels, prized for their pure Arabian bloodlines, are in great demand in the Gulf region. While the young thoroughbreds are bought at mind-boggling prices to be raced at major high-stakes events, the more mature ones whose mettle has been tested on race tracks, will be used as breeding stock.
Consequently, Omani racing events are a big draw for racing buffs from the UAE and elsewhere. It is an opportunity for stable owners to scout around for pure thoroughbreds which they can take back for breeding, says Mubarak bin Amor al Habsi, local representative of the Majlis Ash'shura and the driving force behind the Al Mudhaibi races.
Himself the owner of a number of prized thoroughbreds, Al Habsi has been seeking to raise the profile of the sport in his wilayat because of its potential to generate income far greater than any other economic activity pursued in these desolate parts.
A prize-winning camel, valued at upwards of RO100,000 in the camel-breeding and racing trades, is paraded before an admiring audience
Thanks to his personal initiative and that of other like-minded enthusiasts, Al Mudhaibi has emerged as one of the key breeding centres for pedigree camels in the country.
There are 55 permanent camps for breeding and training of racing camels in the wilayat, each holding between 10 and 40 thoroughbreds. Roughly, a third of the local population is involved in this activity, either providing services as trainers, handlers and jockeys, or engaged in the supply of foodstuff, fodder, camel trappings and other specialist products.
The races take place on a newly expanded 8 km race track set in the wilderness of Al Mudhaibi. Camels, trainers and handlers are all at home in this harsh environment having trained in scorching weather all summer-long the previous year. With several hundred entrants taking part, the races are spread over six days with over a dozen sprints organised every day for different age groups of camels.
The races start early in bright sunshine with a mild breeze sweeping across the dusty landscape. Getting 20-odd racing thoroughbreds to line up against the starting line can be an unruly affair. Handlers struggle to get their charges into position, as a gaggle of race supervisors try to get themselves heard above the commotion.
Jockeys — young boys barely 5-6 years old — sit astride their mounts confident and poised. Wearing head-gear for protection, some of them are strapped to the camels lest they fall off during the race. Amid the cacophony of snorting camels, owners bark last minute instructions to the jockeys.
Suddenly, a loud-hailer calls for the race to begin, as an official yanks away the length of slender rope held across the starting line. Forty pairs of hooves surge forward amid shrieks and yells, leaving the handlers barely enough time to get out of the path of the charging camels. An odd handler invariably gets caught beneath the hooves of the thundering herd, but emerges unscathed. Dusting himself, he scrambles to join his team on board an open pick-up that takes off in a cloud of dust alongside the galloping camels.
Dust blankets the race course as 20 pick-ups, with headlights blazing, speed blindly alongside the race track in near-zero visibility.
Pick-ups race alongside the race track as the owners watch the progress of their camels. Using an expensive one-way radio, the owner communicates with the jockey, who has a receiver strapped to his chest. The challenge for the owner, however, is to keep track of his camel, which along with the jockey, is completely obscured by dust for much of the race.
Taking into account the inherent perils of racing in such conditions, an ambulance thoughtfully provided by the Ministry of Health, trails behind the line of pick-ups.
At the finish, race officials pick out the top three winners. Camels and owners are paraded before an admiring crowd of dignitaries and fans, followed by a round of prizes.
For the jubilant owners, it won't be long before talent scouts and brokers approach with offers for their prized charges. The haggling usually runs into several days before a deal, if any, is struck. As a professional breeder says,
an astute owner is never in any rush to sell his coveted thoroughbred. The next racing season will see his camel winning new honours on the race track, and adding new premium to its value.
FOR the uninitiated in camel matters, the 'Grand Show' of camels hosted by Al Mudhaibi recently was a spectacular sight to behold. More than 400 thoroughbreds from all over the Sultanate, as well as several from the United Arab Emirates and faraway Qatar, and elsewhere, took part in this first-ever 'beauty pageant', vying for the title of the Best-looking Camel.
Head held high with a natural pout to boot, the slender leggy contestants strutted their stuff before a panel of judges, who assessed them for their pedigree, original Omani bloodlines, dignified gait, composure, physique and overall comeliness. The setting for this unique event was however far removed from the catwalks of humankind.
Standing tall: Tasselled saddles and reins are part of the traditional regalia
It was staged in the dusty flatlands outside Mudhaibi town, with the noonday sun beating down mercilessly on the parched landscape. Dust eddies, whipped up by draughts, spun crazily through this arid terrain. But the mood was breezy. Throngs of people from Al Mudhaibi and the surrounding wilayats squatted along a mud embankment to marvel at the sight of hundreds of camels lined up in a huge semi-circle. Camel enthusiasts from the UAE, having driven down in 4WDs and pick-ups, mingled with the local folks, completely at home despite the heat and dust.
Camels run in pairs at the Mudhaibi pageant
Among the visitors were a number of talent scouts, with video cameras rolling, keeping a tab on the top performers to report to their bosses — wealthy Gulf shaikhs — who are constantly looking to grow their stable of thoroughbreds. The camels themselves, although known to be easily excitable and skittish, were a picture of serenity, watched by their handlers who sat close by. Fitted out in traditional regalia, including tasselled saddles made of goat hair, and brightly coloured reins, they waited patiently as a team of officials went around tagging and checking the participants.
There was no 'catwalk', but a shortlist of potential winners was invited to show off their mettle by sprinting down a 400m track. The camels raced in pairs with their respective owners astride. The riders themselves showed off their riding skills by standing on their mounts or holding arms together as the camels galloped down the track.
A number of runners-up were declared, but the day's clear winner was a dapper thoroughbred owned by Hashil bin Said bin Hashil from the Wilayat of Al Khabourah. The proud owner and his camel were soon surrounded by admiring fans, as well as a swarm of buyers bidding for his prize-winning dromedary. An initial offer of RO 10,000 from a Qatari party was quickly turned down. "I won't consider anything less than RO 20,000," he quipped, knowing fully well that more attractive offers will come his way as word of his camel's success reaches the ears of camel-breeders elsewhere in Oman and the GCC.
Indeed, camel breeding is big business in these parts of the Sultanate. Groomed to be the thoroughbred versions of the legendary Arabian steed, camels are raking in big bucks for an enterprising, young breed of Bedouins who, nevertheless, remain true to their desert-bound lifestyle and traditions. Coveted by racing aficionados of the Gulf region, Omani thoroughbreds are in great demand over other Arabian camels. Good sprinters can command fabulous prices ranging from RO 60,000 to RO 100,000 a head.
Grooming these dromedaries into fine runners is the job of veteran trainer Mubarak bin Said al Wahaibi, whose charges have generally excelled on the racetracks. As the wilayat's top camel trainer, Mubarak can find as many as 100 camels under his care at the start of the training season from June to October.
During the course of the programme, however, the number of camels in training whittles down as some cannot endure the rigours of the training regimen, or lack mettle on the racetrack.
Riders show off their skills standing on their mounts
Racing thoroughbreds are first put through their paces when they are about two years old, says Mubarak. Initially the animals are trained to obey basic commands issued by the jockey. Then, a crucial two-kilometre gallop decides which among them have the stomach for the rigours of the race field. To help build their stamina, the camels are made to run certain distances every day, which varies in proportion to their age.
Camels in traditional regalia take part in the pageant
Two-year-old camels run one to two km on an average; three-year-olds cover an average 2.5 km or up 5 km. Five-year-old animals run up to 6 km per day. In fact, these hardy creatures, whose ilk have endured the ravages of the harsh desert environment since they first walked the earth, get virtually the same fawning care deserving of a prized Italian sports car. They are scrubbed and shampooed twice a week, any bruises daubed with expensive ointments, and at night, kept warm with blankets and sheets.
Their diet is not the usual thorny shrubs of desert vegetation. Instead they are reared on rich fibre-based fare, which includes the finest honey and dates, fresh cow milk and ghee, wheat and freshly harvested alfalfa grass. In summer, they are fed the tender leaves of the sidr tree. Every few hours, camel owners arrive in their pick-ups laden with loads of fresh fodder and tanks of water. Care is taken to ensure that only the most nutritive fare is offered to the camels. Mouth-guards also ensure that the animals do not graze on desert vegetation, lest they lose their stamina and consequently their racing prowess. Weekly stomach purges also help the creatures remain in fine fettle.
During the racing season, each camel owner spends between RO 200 and RO 400 every month, on nutritive feeds and other essentials. It's a small price to insure the health and well-being of animals worth upwards of RO 50,000 each. In fact, it's not the camel-breeders alone that gain from this multi-million riyal pursuit. The demand for large quantities of fresh honey, dates, cow milk, ghee and fodder has translated into better incomes for local farmers in the wilayat. Camel trappings are also in demand.
Oman Observer 7th May 2002
