Historical Bahla, Oman
The magnificent Bahla fort is at the heart of a major refurbishment programme designed to preserve the wilayat’s rich heritage
By Conrad Prabhu
The ancient walled-city of Bahla is unquestionably one of Oman's greatest historical treasures. A grandiose fort, quaint mud-brick neighbourhoods, traditional souq and a trove of local legend pay testimony to a rich heritage.
Now a major renovation programme is under way to restore some of its former glory. Starting with the restoration of the magnificent Bahla Fort under the auspices of Unesco, the local authorities in conjunction with the Ministry of Heritage and Culture have drawn up a comprehensive refurbishment plan covering other elements of Bahla's heritage, notably the traditional market, the atmospheric neighbourhoods, and perhaps even the sprawling wall around the fort.
The ultimate aim, says Hilal bin Said bin Hamdan al Hajri, Wali of Bahla, is to promote the wilayat as an important destination for tourists and history enthusiasts.
Hilal bin Said al Hajri, Wali of Bahla, strongly supports Bahla’s aspirations to fame as a major tourist destination
A special committee tasked with charting a blueprint towards this goal has now commissioned a preliminary consultancy study. In the interim, any new commercial or private construction in the immediate vicinity of the imposing fort has been halted. Renovations of existing structures within this zone must be in keeping with the historical ambience of the fort.
The formidable fort, once the symbol of the Bahla's invincibility, is the focal point of this picture-postcard oasis town. Poignant in its ruin, the imposing edifice stands on an outcrop surrounded by verdant swathes of date palm gardens.
Over the decades, a combination of wars, tribal conflicts and the elements have exacted a heavy toll on this imposing stone and mud-brick structure. The fort remained in picturesque decay until about a decade ago, when it was taken in hand for a major overhaul as a monument of global historical significance worthy of mention in Unesco's prestigious World Heritage list.
The painstaking restoration work, now in its 10th year, is dictated by the need to retain the authentic character and shape, using traditional construction materials or their modern equivalent. "
Large stretches of Bahla’s defensive wall are still intact
Pictures by Abdullah al Shuhi
The work cannot be rushed through because of the exacting renovation criteria specified by Unesco if the fort's place on the World Heritage List is to be ensured. Moreover, it's a huge complex, with large portions having been ruined before the project was launched," says Al Hajri.
But progress is strongly evident. The famous wind towers, once believed to be the tallest structures of pre-Renaissance Oman but obliterated by the elements, are now gradually taking shape again. Contractors are now focused on the main girth of the massive structure, which remains off-bounds to tourists until restoration work is completed.
Equally important to Bahla's heritage is its unique fortified wall that meanders around the surrounding hills for a distance of 12 kilometres. Believed to have been built about 600 years ago, the wall served as a defensive ring around ancient Bahla. It skirts the great Bahla Wadi for a significant distance before twisting through the countryside.
Circular watchtowers at intervals of 200 metres along the outer edge of the wall were designed for sentries armed with muskets and guns. Only sections of this 5-metre-high battlemented fence, totalling a distance of 9 kilometres, now remains. Plans for restoring the wall have been tentatively drawn up, but will not take precedence over other important restoration initiatives under way in the wilayat.
Parts of the countryside just beyond the wall are fertile and bucolic. Farmers use rudimentary ploughs to prepare vegetable patches for the cultivation of okra, beans, wheat and even sugarcane, depending upon availability of water.
Bahla's heritage of mud-brick neighbourhoods, that once thrived in the protective shadow of the great fort, also invite discovery. Al Aqar is the biggest of six such neighbourhoods, some boasting multi-storeyed dwellings with stairways on the inside. Adorned entrances with lyrical inscriptions, and doors built with expensive walnut wood, are evidence of the neighbourhoods' affluence in bygone times. A prodigious falaj, since weakened by years of drought, once coursed through the neighbourhoods. Away from the fort, the quaint mud-brick neighbourhoods give way to more modern homes.
Also targeted for restoration is an ancient mosque built on a hilltop next to the fort. The structure is being carefully renovated to ensure its original character and ambience is retained. Recently, workers excavating the foundation stumbled upon a hoard of silver coins believed to be of pre-Islamic origin, attesting to the great antiquity of Bahla's fort complex.
According to Hilal al Hajri, Wali of Bahla, the wilayat has all the elements necessary to make it a potential magnet for tourists. Together with Bahla's other singular attraction — the splendid Jabrin Castle fort, located just 20km away, this historical town is a tourist destination in the making. In fact, the major restoration plan now under way in the wilayat, is primarily oriented towards this goal. The private sector is being urged to play a significant role in the endeavour to make the most of Bahla's tourist potential.
"There's strong emphasis on the need to maintain Bahla's heritage and traditional character. Besides the fort, the restoration plan will cover the souq and spotlight the town's pottery industry. People living in the neighbourhood of the fort are being encouraged to adopt architectural designs that are in harmony with the fort's character," the Wali said.
But Bahla's attractions are not limited to history and archaeology alone, stresses Al Hajri. "Bahla is the biggest wilayat in the Interior region with a diverse natural geology encompassing desert, mountains and wadis. There are spots of unique natural beauty that invite discovery, especially after the rains. The adventure-minded will find numerous opportunities for exploration around these parts. The road infrastructure is being developed to facilitate access to some of the lesser-known attractions."
One such getaway with the potential to become a major attraction is Jabal Khour, according to the Wali. Mediterranean-style conditions on the summit make it ideal for weekend camping trips.
Public utility services and the civil infrastructure of the wilayat are also being expanded and modernised. Piped water supply will soon be a reality in Bahla town, thanks to a RO1.5 million project to connect 6,000 homes to a network that will tap an aquifer some 10km from the town. The project will significantly alleviate the town's potable water woes.
In other developments, 70 kilometres of internal roads are being added to the wilayat's road network, a new sewage treatment plant is planned, and a new polyclinic under construction will significantly augment healthcare services. Bahla also hosts the Sultanate's only agriculture lab that focuses on date and banana research.
Pictures by Abdullah al Shuhi
Oman Observer, 6th November 2003
