Information on campsites, turtle reserve, Sharqiyah
By Ebby Chacko George
(this information dates from 2003-2004 and may therefore have changed. ed)
The Sultanate’s eastern Sharqiyah region endowed with a spectacular coast steeped in antiquity is abuzz with the annual fertility rite of Green turtles. During May to July, the endangered Green turtles swim closer to Omani waters for feeding and mating. The July-September period marks the peak season for mating and nesting while from September to November, the survival saga of hatchlings unravels on the pristine sandy beaches.
The 42-km stretch of beaches comprising the Ras al Hadd Turtle Reserve is a safe haven for Green turtles. In the dead of night, female turtles weighing on an average 150 kg swim ashore for nesting. Up to 100 of them converge every night at Ras al Jinz, which is the only beach where visitors are allowed to view the nesting process.
In July, 383 Green turtles were tagged by rangers at Ras al Hadd reserve where more than 10,000 turtle tracks were found. So far, at least 7,000 Green turtles have nested this season in Ras al Hadd area, according to Ali bin Amer al Kiyumi, Director-General of Nature Conservation, Ministry of Regional Municipalities, Environment and Water Resources. "Many Green turtles visit these areas, especially the 15 beaches bordered with rocky cliffs, which are not monitored in view of the rough sea. These beaches serve as naturally protected areas for nesting turtles,” he added. The September-January period is the best time for visitors to watch the nesting process. The weather is very pleasant at this time due to the influence of the monsoon season and the visit of turtles are also above average levels, Al Kiyumi said. The Sultanate has a very large population of Green turtles which normally return once in two or three years to the same beach for nesting, he added.
In view of the immense importance attached to conservation and environmental protection, a visiting centre with modern accommodation facilities will be set up in 2004 at a cost of RO 2 million at Ras al Jinz, Al Kiyumi said. The centre will have a library, research facility, laboratories and two pools for adult and baby turtles, he added. Ras al Jinz is a renowned site for ongoing archaeological excavations and some of the finds which date back to 4,000 BC will be showcased at a museum to be set up at the centre by the Ministry of Heritage and Culture, Al Kiyumi said.
The accommodation facilities include an 80-bed hotel besides camping sites for tourists. The research facility will be open for local and international turtle experts, Al Kiyumi said, adding that the new developments at Ras al Hadd will be finely balanced to maintain nature conservation and tourism development. “People visiting Ras al Hadd are given proper guidelines to respect nature.
A comprehensive programme is in place for proper management of the turtle reserve,” Al Kiyumi said. The Sultanate accounts for a large population of four species out of nine species frequenting the regional waters, Al Kiyumi said. Masirah Island has the world’s densest population of Loggerhead turtles, he said, adding that the US and Oman recorded the world’s largest concentration
A Green turtle swims ashore to nest in Ras al Jinz
of Loggerhead turtles. Of the four species found in Oman, about 50,000 turtles were tagged during the last 15 years. However, less than 50 of them were tracked so far which indicates that the turtle population is very large in Oman, Al Kiyumi said. The Sultanate has at least 20,000 Green turtles which mature at 40 years and whose life span is above 100 years, Al Kiyumi said. The Sultanate is launching joint research studies with the US and the UAE on satellite tracking of Loggerhead, Green and Hawksbill turtles. The study will be aimed at determining the behaviour and migration patterns of turtles.
Al Kiyumi is a renowned turtle specialist and an active member of the Indian Ocean Turtle Conservation Group involved in the exchange of information and research data. “Green turtles are an endangered species, but the Sultanate has a large population due to the strict conservation measures initiated by the government. Viewing of turtle nesting is promoted as a controlled tourism activity,” Al Kiyumi said. The camping facility at Ras al Jinz can presently accommodate about 100 people. There are 15 rangers supervising the activities at Ras al Jinz. They are responsible for tagging and ensuring the safety of turtles. Visitors are allowed on the nesting beaches only under the guidance of rangers. The camping charges are RO 3 for adults and RO 1 for children. Those who do not wish to camp can view the nesting process paying RO 1 for adults and 100 baisa for children. The nesting process takes place in the cover of darkness to the accompaniment of roaring winds and lashing waves. During moonlit nights, the aquamarine blue of the Arabian Sea and the contrasting hues of adjoining mountains weave a stunning setting at the serene coast.
The Green turtles adopt an ingenious decoy to divert foxes and other predators away from the eggs, which take about two months to hatch. Using their flippers, the turtles strenuously work and remove sand to create a half-metre-deep nest. After laying eggs in the sandy nest, the turtles deftly cover the nest and proceed ahead to make a larger hole, which is mistaken by predators as the nest with eggs.
On an average, a green turtle lays a clutch of 100 eggs. For millions of years, Sharqiyah’s picture perfect beaches bordered by sculpted mountains have been a safe habitat for nesting Green turtles. For 90 million years, turtles roamed freely the world’s oceans and swam ashore to nesting beaches. While the pressures of modern development took a serious toll on nature conservation in many countries, the Sultanate has been treading a cautious path to preserve its pristine environment. Given the low survival rate of turtles - only two or three hatchlings out of 10,000 reach adulthood - serious efforts have been initiated in Oman to protect the endangered varieties of turtles, especially the Green turtles, Al Kiyumi said.
A permit is required to visit Ras al Jinz and the document can be obtained either from the ministry or on arrival at the camp office in Ras al Jinz. Importantly, advance booking is necessary to visit Ras al Jinz during the peak nesting months of September and October, Al Kiyumi pointed out. A 330-km drive from Muscat takes you to Sur, the capital of Sharqiyah region. Another 65 km on a graded road takes you to the turtle nesting beach in Ras al Jinz. The proposed airport in Sur is set to boost tourism development in the Sharqiyah region. Rimal al Sharqiyah (Wahiba Sands) is only 1-hour drive from Sur while the scenic coast of Al Ashkhara can be accessed in half an hour. Wadi Bani Khalid is another major tourist attraction in the region which is also an hour’s drive from Sur.
Al Naseem Camp is a popular tourist facility located only four minutes drive from Ras al Jinz nature reserve. The fenced-in and guarded camp offers comfortable sleeping facilities in spacious A-framed cabins enclothed with palm fronds to ward off nature’s elements. Each cabin is fitted out with electric lighting, two single beds with mattresses and bedding. For added comfort, the fixed amenities include showers, wash-basins and flush toilets. The spacious Arabian style entertainment area, covered with palm fronds is an introduction to true Omani hospitality where visitors can dine in comfort and lounge on oriental carpets and cushions. The campfire area with tables, chairs, oriental carpets and cushion is a delight.
The tariff at Al Naseem Camp is RO 17 per person, including dinner, bed and breakfast, besides the permit fee to enter the reserve. Children are charged only 50 per cent of the normal tariff while kids below six years stay free. According to Said al Harthy, the promoter of Al Naseem Camp, the tourist arrival has been good in the past few years. Nearly 70 per cent of tourists visiting the turtle reserve comprise expatriates from Oman and 30 per cent overseas visitors. Weekend booking for rooms must be done in advance, Al Harthy said.
Ras Al Hadd Beach Hotel is another facility frequented by visitors. The facility is located 12 km from the conservation area. The hotel has 34 rooms in the main building and 16 portacabin rooms. The tariff for rooms in the main building is RO 23 plus tax, inclusive of breakfast, while the portacabin rooms cost RO 18 plus tax.
Sur Mercure Hotel offers an attractive turtle package. Sur Mercure Hotel, which opened in 1998, is geared to meeting the requirements of both business and leisure travellers. The 4-star hotel boasts 108 well-appointed rooms. The proposed airport in Sur is set to boost tourism development in the Sharqiyah region. Rimal al Sharqiyah is only 1-hour drive from Sur while the scenic coast of Al Ashkhara can be accessed in half an hour. Wadi Bani Khalid is another major tourist attraction in the region, which is also an hour’s drive from Sur.
— Pictures by Abdullah al Shuhi
Oman Observer 30th August 2003, updated 1st September 2004
