Taqah and Mirbat
A drive east out of Salalah brings one on to the highway moving on a gentle seafront crescent. Mid-way on the crescent, about 37 kilometres from Salalah is the town of Taqah and at the end of the crescent is the town of Mirbat. All along the route a visitor catches glimpses of the sea on one side and stretches of the mountains on the other.
Both Taqah and Mirbat are easy to reach and both are popular with visitors who want to leave Salalah’s urban scene to experience a bit of the countryside. The area of Taqah extends from the foothills of the mountains to the arid desert.
The desert here is of two types — the semi-desert (badiyah) and the arid desert (al sahra). Some of the rural areas around Taqah experience a touch of the drizzle that descends on Salalah during the rainy season (khareef). Around Taqah, they use the term al qatn to describe the borderline that separates the dry from the wet zones during the rainy season. The rain does not penetrate the northern regions of this area except in certain places known well to the people of the place. The people of Taqah depend on fishing and agriculture for their livelihood. Many are also engaged in animal farming and grazing.
Many years ago, Taqah prospered as a port that exported myrrh, the aromatic gum (Commiphora) that was much in demand. It was collected from the trees on the mountains and exported in ships that frequently called in the area. Once upon a time, the export of myrrh and frankincense contributed in large measure to the economy of the region.
It’s not difficult to find one’s way around in the tiny town of Taqah. From the highway, several roads turn into the town and two of these go to the sea front. There are clean stretches of beach and blue sea and nothing to stop visitors wanting to venture into the water. On the hills beyond the town are four small forts from where one can get a good view of the old town.
The renovated Taqah fort stands at the entrance to the old town. The fort provides a clear picture of the formal arrangement of rooms and quality of spaces that were typical for noble residences in the area. The old houses of Taqah are located in Taqah Al Wusta, the central quarter. These ancient homes were the residences of the prosperous merchants of the town.
Most of these old houses have a storage area on the ground floor called bakhkhar and the living quarters or ghurfah on the first floor. Some of the old houses have a sabla attached to the side of the house. In its hey day, the sablas here were used for entertaining visitors who came to the town to do business. Today some of these have been turned into commercial outlets.
Taqah gave the region the famous Taqah stone. This stone is quarried a few kilometres from the town and is extensively used in house construction in the Dhofar region. Hajar Taqah, the dressed stone is used as a façade for new buildings.
The entire coast around this region is dotted with khawrs (creeks) that are home to a variety of the avian species. Khawr Sawli is located mid-way between Salalah and Taqah. The khawr can be reached only with a four-wheel drive vehicle but is a lovely spot to watch the bird life of the area. During the mornings and early evenings, crake come out and feed in the open. Ducks, teals and waders are other varieties that may be spotted.
Khawr Taqah is well known for its bird life. The khawr can be seen from the town and except in the rainy season can be reached in a salon car. Pheasant –tailed Jacana, crakes, Yellow Bittern are some of the species that may be spotted here. Migrant species like pipits, wagtails, flycatchers and shrikes have also been spotted. Being a fishing town, Taqah is a happy base for a variety of gulls and terns.
To go onward to Mirbat one returns to the highway and heads eastwards. Mirbat has all the features of a busy fishing town with a little basin where boats tie up to load and unload before and after a trip to sea.
Mirbat’s fort stands majestically at the side of the small bay. In its hey day, it was ready to face anyone who came to pillage the town and take the goods stored in the warehouses. The cannons of the fort stand just a few feet above sea level resting on the low walls facing the sea.
Mirbat fort was constructed in the 19th century. The fort was the stronghold of the previous rulers of Oman and was used during the time of Sultan Turki bin Said, Sultan Faisal bin Turki, Sultan bin Taimur and Sultan Said bin Taimur. This fort played a defensive and administrative role throughout history. The fort was first renovated in the middle of the last century. The octagonal tower called the mathumunah dates from this time. The entire fort was then restored by the government in 1991 and was officially opened in 1996 on the occasion of the Year of Heritage.
The old houses of Mirbat are nearly a century old and are grouped in a cluster around a large open square. Many of the houses are in various stages of disrepair but still have the two-leaf entrance doors and the elaborately carved gates. The windows of the houses have screens and are framed with pointed arches.
In a valley to the northeast of Mirbat town is a large graveyard with a number of shrines and ancient tombs. At one end of the cemetery is the shrine of Muhammad bin Ali who is described as a taqi or pious man. He established a madrassa in Mirbat and died in the year 1161. The place is well maintained and has many original features some of them dating back to 12th century.
Mirbat and the neighbouring town of Sadh come alive during the abalone season. Abalone, referred to as sufailah locally is often called as the “food of the gods” and the steak of the sea. It is fished locally during the limited season when it is permitted and dried and exported to countries in the Far East. Over fishing of the abalone has resulted in a major depletion of stocks and efforts are on to replenish the stocks by limiting the season.
Abalone divers are given licences for the conduct of diving by the Ministry of Fisheries and Agriculture. There are no special tools or equipment that is required and the best divers are clearly those who can hold their breath while the abalone is prised out from the rock. The divers have no special training but the one rule that they must all adhere to is to ensure that the rocks are left intact while harvesting the abalone. Overturning or shifting the rock disturbs the developing abalone, uproots the algae and pulls the curtain down on both the species and the business.
Mirbat and it’s surroundings also provide ample opportunities for watching different species of sea birds. Several varieties of sea birds like petrels, shearwater and the cormorants may be seen at Ras Mirbat and at Ras Janjari located 12 kilometres from the town. A four-wheel drive vehicle is required for getting to Ras Janjari. For those with a passion for watching sea birds, it is also possible to negotiate and hire a boat from Mirbat harbour.
Oman Observer 5th April 2004
